NEW POST on my YouTube Channel… I posted the fourth video in a seven part series on Alaska… “Port of Call – Skagway and Haines… Tips From A Cruise Ship Insider”… Join me on an adventure to Skagway and Haines, Alaska on where to go, what to see, favorite restaurants and shore excursions…Oh yeah some nice photographs too…. Enjoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJYyf5mT1Ok&t=7s
Alaska Itineraries | Selecting Your Cruise Itinerary
UP and RUNNING…. I posted the first video on my new YouTube Channel called Travel Guide and Photography. Yesterday was the “official” start to channel beginning with a 7 part series on Cruising to Alaska and the Inside Passage.
Please take a look… all comments are greatly appreciated. If you like what you see and/or where I am heading please Subscribe”… It cost nothing and Hit the Bell Button to know when I post a new video… and the Like Button if you like the video…
Thanks in advance
Travel Guide and Photography – YouTube Channel
I just started my YouTube Channel today…
I invite you to watch a brief introduction of Travel Guide and Photography. Let’s explore the possibilities of the worlds travel destinations through conversation, videos and photography together.
A professional photojournalist since 1979 specializing in travel, landscape and wildlife photography I have traveled to over 80 countries with my camera and notebook in hand. For the past 11 years I have worked and lived on cruise ships traveling the globe. The channel is not just for those traveling by cruise ship, many places I have visited cannot be reached by ship. It is for all travelers regardless of how you reach your destination.
Each weekly video will explore the possibilities focusing on a given destination. We will discuss what to see, where to go, my favorite places to eat and favorite tours. I will also focus on photography. At the end of each video I will include several still images giving photographers an idea of the photographs they may capture. I will also select a favorite image and tell the story behind it. For those that are not photographers this will give you a sneak peak of what you can expect at that destination.
My goal is for you to benefit from my experiences, lend advice and answer questions on destinations that you are considering and maybe some that you have not considered.
Please join me at the link below. If you enjoy the channel please subscribe, hit the bell to be notified of my next upload and hit the like button…
enjoy
Travel Guide and Photography – YouTube Channel
I just started my YouTube Channel today…
I invite you to watch a brief introduction of Travel Guide and Photography. Let’s explore the possibilities of the worlds travel destinations through conversation, videos and photography together.
A professional photojournalist since 1979 specializing in travel, landscape and wildlife photography I have traveled to over 80 countries with my camera and notebook in hand. For the past 11 years I have worked and lived on cruise ships traveling the globe. The channel is not just for those traveling by cruise ship, many places I have visited cannot be reached by ship. It is for all travelers regardless of how you reach your destination.
Each weekly video will explore the possibilities focusing on a given destination. We will discuss what to see, where to go, my favorite places to eat and favorite tours. I will also focus on photography. At the end of each video I will include several still images giving photographers an idea of the photographs they may capture. I will also select a favorite image and tell the story behind it. For those that are not photographers this will give you a sneak peak of what you can expect at that destination.
My goal is for you to benefit from my experiences, lend advice and answer questions on destinations that you are considering and maybe some that you have not considered.
Please join me at the link below. If you enjoy the channel please subscribe, hit the bell to be notified of my next upload and hit the like button…
enjoy
Laguna Beach… California’s Riviera
The small artist community of Laguna Beach is the Riviera of the West Coast. Its pristine white beaches, clear blue water and numerous rocky coves offer seclusion and a sense of privacy. Located halfway between Los Angeles and San Diego, this seaside village is an oasis in the concrete jungle of Southern California.
To reach Laguna, you have to drive the famed Pacific Coast Highway as it winds and dips its way along the countryside, skirting the Pacific Ocean as you listen to the Beach Boys sing Little Surfer Girl. The alternative is a 10-mile drive through Laguna Canyon, surrounded by the peaceful hills of the coastal range.
If you choose the canyon route, as you near town to your left are the grounds of the Sawdust Festival, and just a couple hundred yards further on the right lies the Festival of Arts. The festivals offer various display and sale of works of art, from paintings and sculptures to handmade clothing to blown glass and everything in-between, all from local artists.
The Sawdust Festival was created in 1967 by local artists. Eclectic works of art housed in a diverse range of display booths constructed by the artists themselves. As you wander through the narrow passageways of the sawdust-covered grounds, music fills the air and transports you to a simpler time.
The Festival of Arts began in 1932 and is a more modern setting than the rustic Sawdust Festival. As you roam from booth to booth exploring the grounds your eyes are filled with the colors, shapes and forms created by the region’s talented artisans.
The Festival of Arts is also the locale of the Pageant of Masters which was first introduced in 1933. The pageant offers a live performance of approximately 1,200 volunteers, 500 of which are cast or work behind the scenes. The cast are positioned, donned in period clothes and painted with makeup recreating famous works of art. The recreations include paintings, sculptures and statues, culminating with an interpretation of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper.”
The Sawdust and the Festival of Arts are joined by a slew of other art festivals throughout the year, including the Art-a-Fair, also held in the canyon. It includes 100 gifted artists displaying their work, giving workshops and demonstrations.
All the festivals take place during the summer, Christmas and during holiday periods. The town is also filled with a plethora of quaint shops and art galleries for you to explore.
In recent years, Laguna has become a foodie destination as well, with a wide variety of restaurants ranging from taco stands to small mom-and-pop cafes to five-star establishments.
Lodging options are just as diverse, and include a myriad of hotels, inns and resorts. Some are nestled in canyons, others on hillsides overlooking the ocean, and still others sit on the sandy beach.
The Ranch at Laguna Beach is located in the quiet and serene Aliso Canyon, a five-minute drive from the center of the village, away from the hustle and bustle of downtown, yet close enough to enjoy everything that Laguna has to offer.
As a member of the prestigious National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, this exceptional gem was ranked among the Conde Nast Travelers Top 10 Reader’s Choice Awards in 2019. A Forbes recommendation and AAA 4 Diamond rating further accents the resort’s impressive portfolio of attractions.
The Ranch hosts a GEO-certified nine-hole golf course, replete with a country club, a patio restaurant and a bar that overlooks the course. There is also a well-appointed pro shop with lessons available.
The resort’s boutique Hudson Salon and Spa offers therapeutic massages, anti-aging facials and innovative Cryoskin body toning therapy from Paris to zap away unwanted fat.
Regardless what time of year you visit Laguna you are sure to enjoy what the town has to offer. It’s little wonder that Laguna Beach has earned the unofficial title of California’s Riviera.
…Nov. 27, 2020
Yosemite’s Savage Beauty Awaits
The long and tedious span of the worldwide covid-19 lockdown felt more like years than months for many, including myself.
But finally many countries are beginning to reopen allowing us once again to breathe fresh air and experience the great outdoors.
For me there is no better place to do this than at Yosemite National Park in California.
Yosemite reopened its gate in mid-June with restrictions to reduce the number of people entering the park and a decision that a number of facilities that will not open in 2020 including some restaurants, stores and lodging.
On the upside the reduced number of cars allowed into the park means far fewer traffic jams than usually accompany the summer months and much smaller crowds at key attractions.
Driving the “Valley Loop” you can enjoy a scenic turnout at Valley View and just another 15 minutes away you will find is Tunnel View.
A 30-minute drive will take you to Glacier Point affording one of the best views overlooking the valley, Half Dome, Vernal and Nevada Falls. Heading in another direction in 30 minutes you can walk among the giant redwoods of the Mariposa Grove and 30 minutes further on awaits the wonders of Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite’s high country.
Even with the reduced number of people allowed to hike the area many of the trails have fallen victim to the covid-19 pandemic with fewer trail permits issued. But if you limit yourself to hiking relatively flat terrain the valley floor has approximately 10 miles of trails to explore and a trail permit is not required. In a one- or two-hour stroll you can marvel at the iconic structures of El Captain, Half Dome, Sentinel Rock and Yosemite Falls.
Whether you are a day hiker or the more adventurous sort like myself, who has donned a 40-50 pound backpack for days or weeks at a time to explore, the pristine wilderness awaits and one can still obtain the highly prized “wilderness and trail permit” by applying online.
One of my favorite day hikes is the 2.1-mile roundtrip trail with only a 456-foot elevation gain to Sentinel Dome. Add another 3 miles and 666 feet of elevation and you will find yourself at Taft Point on the south rim looking straight down at valley the floor 3000 feet below. The downfall due to the ease of the trail are the crowds, the upside is the incredible view consisting of Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Half Dome and many of Yosemite’s landmarks.
If you are looking to escape the crowds a good alternative is Dewey, Crocker and Stanford Points where the 9-mile trail and 1,925-foot elevation gain make for fewer visitors. Carrying a 54-pound backpack, 14 pounds of which was camera equipment, I recently spent three days on Crocker Point photographing the Milky Way, with day hikes to Dewey and Stanford Points.
The trail begins downhill through a covered forest for three-quarters of a mile, opening into the lush green McGurk Meadow for another half mile before once again entering the forest. At the 2 mile mark the steep climb to Dewey Point begins. As the trail ascends the sounds of birds singing, an occasional deer or bear sighting a sense of peace engulfs you overwhelming your senses.
And then suddenly there is that most welcome sound of all for a backpacker, the sound of a small stream where you can quench your ever-building thirst with fresh, cool water. It is important to note that even though you are in the wilderness you should to filter the water. Giardia is the last thing that you want to encounter.
Pushing uphill the last half mile past the stream you reach Dewey Point where most people stop and return back to their cars if on a day hike or pitch their tent to spend the night. I reached Dewey in the late afternoon where about 15 tents had already staked their claim for the night.
Having lived in Yosemite on and off for three years. I knew a little over a half mile further was Crocker Point which is seldom visited, and I had the place all to myself for three days. This is where I would suggest you spend the night.
The steep downhill trail which of course means a steep uphill climb when I leave can be daunting, but you will be rewarded with a much better view looking down on Bridalveil Falls, which you cannot see from Dewey. There is a panorama view from the cliffs edge of El Captain, North Dome, Clouds Rest and Half Dome.
If you have never experienced the night skies in the backcountry away from the light pollution of the city prepare yourself, there is nothing on Earth quite like it. The dark blue velvet sky is filled with millions of stars shining like diamonds. During the summer months the Milky Way comes into view and splashes a palette of color from azure blue and rich purple to brilliant orange and crimson red.
Whether you opt for a day hike or spend one to several nights out in the wilderness of Yosemite it will be something you will never forgot. If you are lucky it will get under your skin and you will want to return time and time again to Yosemite.
For me my Yosemite passion started back in 1965 when I was just 10. I spent my honeymoon there in 1972. I lived and worked there for three years and now at age 66 I still don a backpack and head into the wilderness. Yosemite and its hauntingly beautiful wilderness have become part of who I am.
Southeast Asia’s Spectacular City of Lights
When most people hear the phrase “City of Lights” they think of Paris. But when I hear a reference to the City of Lights, I think of the colorful central Vietnam coastal town of Hoi An, and its brightly, multihued buildings, French architecture and streets adorned with hundreds of lanterns of various shapes, sizes and colors lighting up the night.
Traveling to Hoi An your adventure begins in Da Nang, which hosts the closest airport. I would suggest applying for your Vietnamese visa online. There is a Vietnam government website, as well as several private websites to assist you, I have used both. I would highly recommended paying the extra $25 — and it must be in U.S. dollars — for the assisted expedited service. If you do, on your arrival in Vietnam, you will be met by a representative who will help you bypass the long lines and goes directly into the immigration office, saving you a great deal of time and red tape.
I would also recommend considering spending a couple days in Da Nang, either at the beginning or the end of your vacation. The city is steeped in history and there are many interesting sites you can take in, from Marble Mountain to the Golden Hands and Dragon Bridges. Or you can just lay on the beautiful white sand beach that stretches for 20 miles.
Da Nang is only a 30- to 40-minute taxi ride to Hoi An, close enough to make a day trip once you are settled in your hotel. Most hotels will arrange for airport pickup and, depending on your length of stay, it might even be complimentary. If not, it is 250,000 Dong, the Vietnamese currency, around $10.
The biggest draw of Hoi An, and the reason why most people travel there, is the Ancient City, dating back to the 15th century. It sits on the bank of the Thu Bon River. From the 15th to the 19th century Hoi An was an important Southeast Asia trading port, and in 1999, it received the status of an UNESCO World Heritage site.
During what the Americans call the Vietnam War and Vietnamese call the American War, both sides agreed not to bomb or destroy the city. Because of this agreement, Hoi An has maintained its unique architecture of colorful buildings. In contrast, the neighboring cities of Hue and Da Nang saw devastating battles throughout the war.
Hoi An is known for the colorful lanterns which hang in dozens of shops and across almost every street, illuminating the night.
You can enjoy a ride in a 30-minute canoe ride along the river for 100,000 Dong, less than $5.
If you are lucky enough to be there on the full moon, you will witness the town’s Lantern Festival. During the festival, the river is filled with lantern boats to close to capacity, with many boats nearly colliding, but like Vietnam’s street traffic, it is highly orchestrated chaos.
Hoi An is quickly becoming a “foodie” destination as well. With its multiple outstanding restaurants, many of which offer cooking classes for those who want to learn how to cook the local cuisine.
Vietnamese food is fresh, healthy and, for the most part, locally sourced from surrounding vegetable farms and herb gardens. Because of its close proximity to the ocean, Hoi An’s restaurants are always filled with fresh seafood.
Be sure to try the white rose dumplings, filled with shrimp or pork. The dumplings are made of rice paper and steamed in the shape of a white rose and are accompanied with a delicate dipping sauce of shrimp broth, hot chilis, lemon and sugar. What makes these elegant treats so special — besides their wonderfully aromatic taste — is the fact that they can only found in Hoi An. This is due to the fact that the unique water needed to make them comes only from the Ba Le Well, built by the Cham people in the 10th century. The Ba Le Well is also used to produce the town’s signature cao lau noodles, another dish you should try, used for centuries to produce traditional medicinal tinctures and teas.
Most Anthony Bourdain fans are already aware that Vietnam was one of his favorite places on Earth. Located in Hoi An was Bourdain’s favorite place to eat, a small store front and café called Bahn Mi Phuong. The city’s trademark sandwich is the banh mi, a sumptuous concoction of meat, fresh herbs and pâté, served on a French baguette. The sandwich can be found throughout Vietnam, but to have the best, according to the late Bourdain, you must come to Hoi An and the Bahn Mi Phuong Café.
If street food is your thing you will not be disappointed in Hoi An. There are plenty of food carts on the Walking Street across a small bridge spanning the river.
The streets of Hoi An are lined with shop after shop selling everything from tourist trinkets and T-shirts to custom-made suits. There are over 200 custom tailors in Hoi An that will whip out anything from silk shirts and suits for men and luxurious blouses, cocktail dresses and wedding gowns for women. You can arrive with a photograph from your favorite designer, and within a day or two have your order in hand at a fraction of the price.
Another iconic landmark of Hoi An is the Japanese Covered Bridge, built in the 1590s. The ornate bridge was used to link the Japanese and the Chinese quarters traversing a small stream. It is adorned with a small shrine and statues of a dog and a monkey, which some people say commemorates the fact that the bridge was started in the Year of the Dog and finished in the Year of the Monkey. Others say the statues represent that many of the Japanese emperors were born in the Year of the Dog or the Year of the Monkey.
Accommodations in Hoi An range from modest hostels to mid-range hotels to five-star resorts. The last time I went, I stayed at a wonderful mid-range hotel named Hoi An Reverie Villas, and was pleased by my very large room, complete with a sitting area, balcony and large bath. It also had a nice breakfast buffet, swimming pool and patio for $26 per night. Located 1.5 miles from the Ancient City. Five-star accommodations can be found for approximately $50 to $70 per night.
Cruising through History on the Panama Canal
The Panama Canal — which transverses two oceans through the deep tropical jungles of Central America — is one of the world’s most incredible feats of modern engineering, and the only way to truly appreciate its grandeur is on a cruise ship.
The Panama Canal system is considered to be one of the manmade wonders of the world.Construction of the 82-kilometer waterway was begun by France in 1881.
But due to a series of engineering and logistical problems, as well as a high mortality rate of workers as a result of heat exhaustion and malaria, the project was halted three years later.
In 1904, the United States picked up where the French engineers has left off, and the arduous effort to build the conduit began again in earnest.
Ten years later, the magnificent canal opened for business.
A massive levy system was incorporated that crossed the Isthmus of Panama to raise and lower ships 85 feet above sea level.
This allowed ships to take advantage of Gatun Lake, a manmade lake constructed to shorten the excavation of the jungle and the monetary costs and the deaths associated with construction.
For 93 years, the Panama Canal system carried thousands of ships through its waters.
And in September 2007, a new project began to widen the canal.
When this work was completed in May 2016, the new construction allowed today’s supertankers to take advantage of the canal, which beforehand would have been impossible.
When traveling through the Panama Canal on a cruise ship, you can experience the sights and sounds of passing through the locks and witness the beautiful landscape of Panama.
From the vast surrounding jungle to the expansive Gatun Lake and thrill of passing under the Bridge of the Americas and the Centennial Bridge, it is an unforgettable journey.
Your ship will navigate its way across the Continental Divide by waterway, and you will be able to witness the entire process from the deck of your ship.
Your cruise ship journey will start in one of the ports in Florida or in California, depending on your direction of travel. Along the way you will visit a number of ports, including those in the Caribbean, South America, Central American and Mexico.
If your cruise sets sale from Los Angeles, your first port of call will be in Mexico, at Cabo San Lucas, Baja California..
This once sleepy fishing village located at the end of the Baja peninsula, known as Lands’ End, has developed into a busy city and tourist destination.
A key stop for many cruise ships, Cabo has become known for its mild weather, beautiful white sand beaches that stretch for miles, world-class golf courses, hotels and resorts, and its premier sportfishing destinations.
From the myriad of shops filled with trinkets to authentic Cuban cigars to expensive jewelry and activities like fishing, whale watching, horseback riding along the beach, camel rides in the desert, you will never be at a loss for something to do in Cabo. And that does not take into account swimming with dolphins, glass bottom boat rides or scuba diving and snorkeling in the warm crystal clear waters.
Depending on your itinerary, you may stop at any one of the countries in Central America. It could be Guatemala, where you can take an excursion to the colorful city of Antigua, which sits at the foot of a volcano. The little town’s streets are lined with colorful buildings, shops and restaurants.
Or maybe your ship will make a stop in Punta Arenas, Costa Rica, where you may find yourself in a small wooden boat navigating the crocodile, filled waters of the Tarcoles River as you travel through the jungle.
Another frequent stop for cruise ships making this journey is Cartagena, Columbia.
With its rich history, a trip to the old town known as the Walled City or to the colorful Barrio Getsemaní, you’ll find yourself surrounded by numerous cafés and shops.
For those looking for jewelry, Cartagena is known for its quality and reasonably priced emeralds.
If you are not into crowds and prefer nature, try visiting the National Aviary of Colombia outside Cartagena, where you will be treated to over 135 different species and thousands of birds.
Rounding out your Los Angeles embarkation, you will visit the Caribbean and, depending on which ship and itinerary you have, it could be Aruba, Grand Cayman, Curacao or a private island owned by the cruise line.
It is important when deciding on what ship or cruise line to choose that you make sure to research the ship’s itinerary and accommodations.
Your accommodations can range from the basic inside cabin to a spacious luxury suite, depending on your budget. You will also find specialty restaurants, various shops and five-star spa facilities, replete with a beauty salon, massage options and acupuncture services.
And when you consider that your travel, cabin, entertainment and meals are usually all included, the cost of witnessing this extraordinary feat of engineering can be very reasonable.
Yosemite National Park: Be Prepared To Be Humbled
Yosemite National Park is one of those places that you have to experience in person. Although there are many beautiful photographs, movies and documentaries about Yosemite, nothing can compare to actually standing at the base of Yosemite Falls, overlooking the view from on top of Half Dome or positioning yourself on the edge of Glacier Point.
Located along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California, the park covers 1,169 square miles of wilderness. In 1864, President Abraham Lincoln’s signed the Yosemite Grant and in 1890 naturalist John Muir lobbied Congress into expanding the park, which eventually led to today’s U.S. National Park System.
Yosemite Valley has been inhabited for thousands of years by the Ahwahneechee Native Americans with the Paiute, Mono and Miwoks in close proximity.
During the gold rush period of California, competition for resources between the Native Americana and miners began to take its toll. In 1851, the Mariposa Battalion entered the west end of Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Wars erupted. This event was seen as the introduction of the white man to Yosemite.
Over the years, several concessionaries have obtained permits to open stores, restaurants, camping sites and hotels in the park. The best known of these was in 1899 by the Curry Company, which founded Camp Curry at the base of Glacier Point. In 1925, Curry Company and the Yosemite National Park Company were forced to join together, forming the Yosemite Park and Curry Company, which lasted until the late 20th century. It too has been transformed as other companies have coupled with park service.
The formation of Yosemite is due to tectonic and volcanic activity spanning millions of years. Yosemite Valley is only 7 square miles and is a product of glaciers sculpting and carving granite as it moved.
When the ice receded, it left lakes, streams, rivers and sediment forming lush green meadows and forests. This small area of the park harbors some of Yosemite’s iconic landmarks. The Merced River courses through the valley surrounded by 3,000-foot granite walls and the iconic landmarks of Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Half Dome and Glacier Point.
Driving the Valley Loop Road, you will skirt the river and pass through the forests and meadows. Near the west end, you come across Valley View, which offers and a pristine view of the valley with the Merced River at your feet. Here you will marvel at Half Dome, El Capitan and Bridalvail Falls, all seemly a stone’s throw away.
A short drive from the valley floor is Tunnel View, overlooking nearly the entire valley. Views of Sentinel Rock, Cathedral Spires, Half Dome, El Capitan and Bridalvail Falls are all visible from this vantage point and nothing short of spectacular.
Another drive well worth taking ends at Glacier Point. With an elevation of 7,000 and the valley floor at 4,000, you find yourself looking over the top of Yosemite Falls, North Dome and Nevada and Vernal Falls. Half Dome in directly in front of you with Tuolumne Meadows in the distance.
Glacier Point is the trailhead for the Four Mile Trail, actually 4.5 miles, and the 9-mile Panorama Trail, both leading to the valley. Both trails offer beautiful views and vantage points to the delight of many, especially photographers, but they are not to be taken lightly. I have started in the warmth of the sun under clear blue skies in the morning only to encounter snow in the afternoon on both spring and fall days.
Accommodations in the park range from campsites to canvas tents, complete with wood stoves and wooden floors, to lodges to the magnificent five-star Ahwahnee Hotel.
The Ahwahnee is located in Yosemite Valley at the foot of granite cliff and the forests and meadows of the valley floor. Constructed of steel, granite, wood and timbers, it is one of the most beautiful hotels in the world. It opened its door to guests in 1927 and has welcomed moviestars, presidents and foreign royalty.
The layout and décor are striking and is reminiscent of the hotel in the movie “The Shining.” The Ahwahnee lobby, elevators and Great Lounge were adapted into the set of the Overlook Hotel. So do not be surprised if you see two twin girls wondering the halls muttering “Redrum, Redrum.”
The dining room is 130 feet long and 51 feet wide and is nothing short of magnificent. Rock columns and timber in the form of trees support the 34-foot ceiling. During the Christmas season, the Bracebridge Dinner transports you to the Renaissance. This seven-course dining experience is reminiscent of a feast complete with a lord and his court, with minstrels and a jester that will surely entertain.
A visit to Yosemite will leave you both relaxed and exhilarated. Regardless of whether you are warming yourself by a campfire or the fireplace in the Ahwahnee, there will be a calm that overcomes you. Whether you drive or hike the valley floor, you will be humbled by Yosemite Falls, Half Dome and El Capitan. And if you are lucky enough to witness the wildlife of Yosemite and catch a glimpse of a bear, bobcat or one of the many deer that make the valley their home, one thing is guaranteed: You will never forget your visit to Yosemite.
If you are there in the spring of a year with a heavy snowfall during the full moon you just might be lucky enough to see a Moonbow. It is formed by mist of the falls and the bright light of the full moon.
My first trip was in 1965 with my grandparents and a few years later I would camp there as a Boy Scout. A few more years found me camping there as a hippie and in 1972 I spent my honeymoon at the Ahwahnee Hotel.
In 1982 I moved to Yosemite for a couple years and in 2012 I moved there for yet one more year. So you can see Yosemite has a very special place in my heart and has been and will always be in my life.
Halong Bay: Land of the Dragons
The Enchantment of Halong Bay…
The 15th century Vietnamese poet Nguyễn Trãi once described Ha Long Bay as “a rock wonder in the sky.” Anyone who has ever seen the place can easily understand why.
A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1994 and the most-visited tourist destination in the Southeast Asian nation, Ha Long Bay is a spectacular cluster of more than 1,600 limestone islands and islets jutting out of a sea of rippled emerald green waters that evoke a sense of eternal ataraxia.
The peaceful serenity of Ha Long Bay — situated in Vietnam’s northern Quang Ninh Province, just 165 kilometers northeast of Hanoi — is echoed in the tranquil lifestyle of those who live and work here, creating a hauntingly beautiful otherworldliness that mesmerizes all that witness the place.
The islands, called karsts, are perforated with hundreds of winding caves and grottoes — the result of millions of years of weathering and natural erosion — that can be explored on junks and kayaks.
If you have the time and budget for it, you can also book a helicopter tour to be able to appreciate the grandeur of the towering verdant jade-green limestone islands from above, or you can opt for an overnight cruise to watch the shimmering waters of the bay as they change colors with the sunset and sunrise.
To the Vietnamese people, Ha Long has great historic and mythical significance. According to an ancient legend, it was here that the Jade Emperor — the ruler of all people — sent down the Mother Dragon and her children to help the Vietnamese ward off foreign invaders from the north. Not only did the dragons spit fire upon the aggressors, but also filled the bay’s waters with giant emeralds that acted as a barrier against enemy ships.
In the end, the Vietnamese people were victorious, and the emeralds were transformed into the lush, verde islands we see today. So great was the love of the Mother Dragon for the Vietnamese, she allowed her offspring to stay on Earth and to live and intermarry with the local people, thus helping them to gain celestial knowledge of agriculture and warfare.
The name Ha Long means “Descending Dragon,” and even today, the Vietnamese people consider themselves to be descendants of the dragon.
Ha Long Bay was also the home of several of Vietnam’s earliest cultures, including the Soi Nhu (18000 to 7000 B.C.), the Cai Beo (7000 to 5000 B.C.) and the Ha Long (5000 to 3500 B.C.).
Over the centuries, the bay was a pivotal point in Vietnam’s wars and power struggles, and as late as the 19th century, Ha Long was still being used as a hub by Chinese and Vietnamese pirates.
But today, Ha Long is a peaceful fishing and farming region, disturbed only by the influx of tourists.
To get to Ha Long Bay, you can either take a four-hour bus ride (which may be overcrowded and include a barrage of local scents, often not very desirable), or hire a car and arrive in about three hours.
Once in Ha Long Bay, take a two-hour ferry ride to Cat Ba Island and use it as your home base. Cat Ba City is a small waterfront community with many hotels, ranging from very basic hostels averaging $9 per night to the four-star Cat Ba Island Resort and Spa for a mere $85 per night. Another high end option the Van Boi Ecolux Island Resort on a private beach and cove at $107 per night. Remember, you are in Vietnam and the dollar goes a very long way.
Yet another option is to spend the night or several on a junk or a luxury boat that cruises the bay. Spending a night or two at sea away from the sights, sounds and light pollution of shore is relaxing. Now, combine that with the calm waters of the bay and the surrounding karsts with a bright full moon or with a dark sky under the stars, and you have a near-magical experience.
If you are an adventurous soul, you could take the path that I chose. I spent the first night in Cat Ba City, relaxing, enjoying a great meal and making arrangements for the next days transportation.
I hired a small boat that was no more than four feet wide and 20 feet long to take me to Cat Hai Island in the the Haiphong Province. The two-hour journey from Cat Ba City took me through a maze of limestones islands and several communities of houseboats scattered through the bay like hidden gems. I witnessed those living in the floating villages doing daily chores, fishing or just relaxing after a hard day’s work.
I had reserved a bungalow at the Whisper of Nature Resort, located in the small village of Viet Hai. Once my boat arrived, I could either walk about an hour to the village or take an official taxi, a scooter. I opted for the later. I joined my driver with my backpack strapped on and off we went for the one-mile drive.
The small farming village is located in the heart of Cat Ba National Park in a wide valley surrounded by mountains. The village is very safe and virtually crime-free, a fact that the villagers take great pride in. Known as a “eco” village, the people of Viet Hai are very friendly and willing to share their lives with anyone they meet. It was easy to make friends.
At the end of the concrete road, I arrived at my destination, the Whisper of Nature. There were a handful of small cinder block bungalows, all adorned inside with beautiful wood paneling, a bath, a comfortable bed a small patio.
There was a central kitchen, serving wonderful food in a large comfortable dining room. To my surprise, there was the best Wifi I had experienced since I had left the United States. Remember, I was three hours offshore in the middle of the mountains and jungle.
The manager also told me of a remote abandoned village down a dirt trail about 45 minutes away. The entire scene was surreal, with the abandoned structures, the mist hovering over the jungle and the sight of a lone villager walking through the fields, dressed in military fatigues and leading a solitary horse.
I spent four days in Viet Hai, walking through the village, the surrounding fields, visiting with locals and observing a day in the life of a “real” Vietnamese village.
Away from the cities and all their trappings, the serene village of Viet Hai left me feeling calm, relaxed and with a new outlook and sense of purpose in life.
There are many ways to explore Halong Bay. Viet Hai is just one of them. ´But whether you follow my path or find your own, you will never forget your visit to this magical place, Vietnam’s mystical Land of the Dragons.
Larry Pannell Travel and photography 