Juneau Bear Viewing

Bear Creek Outfitters… Part Two

Those of you that follow my blog and those of you that are new will find out what others already know I am an avid photographer. With this in mind this post is going to focus on photographing Kodiak bears.

This has been a Bucket List item for me for many years. I have lived in Yosemite National Park for a number of years and have photographed black bears. I have also gone on numerous tours in Ketchikan, Alaska and also have photographed many black bears there. However when in Alaska you have the chance of capturing on film, to coin an old phrase, Kodiak brown bears, which are typically larger, then their cousins the grizzly bears found in the Lower 48.

To accomplish this I again contacted Matt Boline of Bear Creek Outfitters in Juneau, Alaska and booked a trip. As before the excursion starts at the ship where you are picked up by a private van and taken to the Juneau airport.

The major difference this time is that you are not donning fly fishing gear and grabbing a rod. Again you will meet your pilot and guide and be given a short lecture on safety and what to expect while on your bear viewing adventure.

Once on your floatplane and airborne you marvel at the views of the Mendenhall Glacier. Continuing your flight over the ocean you enjoy mountains views that surround the plane on both sides. Several islands line your path along the way with the shoreline covered with numerous coves and the occasional stream or waterfall cascading into the sea.

Your pilot gently lands on a large channel of water near an island and taxis to the shoreline. You are once again briefed on safety as your guide grabs his rifle and you begin your short hike to a nearby stream.

The hike is not very far and it is not very strenuous but it is not flat either. This is not an adventure for those that have a hard time walking and not accustom to walking on mountain trails. Upon reaching your destination, a viewing area next to a salmon filled stream, get comfortable. You will now find yourself facing the hardest part of the tour, the wait.

Every good photographer will tell that that photography is a game of patience. You are waiting for the right light, waiting for the sunrise or sunset, waiting for the shadows to creep across the landscape just right or in this case you are waiting for the bears to show.

Wildlife photographers are probably the most patient of all photographers. They have to wait for all of the above but in addition they have to hope the game shows, that the subjects are close enough and that they do what you have in mind to get that great photograph.

When I have taken friends on bear viewing trips I always get the same question, “are there going to bears”. I always answer the same way with a “maybe”. I remind them that these are wild animals and they are not waiting in the trees thinking “well Larry is going to be down by the stream in an hour I guess I better head that way”.

Our guide told us that this was a frequent stop for the bears as it was filled with salmon. While we waited for the bears a salmon every now and then would leap up the cascade making their way upstream to the spawning beds.

On this day as luck would have it the Kodiaks showed after an hour wait. On the far side of the stream a female with two cubs around a year old broke through the brush lining the stream and headed towards a small cascade about 100 yards in front of us.

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Kodiak bears emerging from the forest
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Female Kodiak bear with one of her young cubs
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Siblings walking the shoreline in unison

The bears walked alone the bank of the river eventually entering the stream. They would stop here and there trying to decide where to try their luck. Soon they would continue making their way to the cascade.

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Kodiak bear family surveying the stream for salmon
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Kodiak bear cub searching for salmon in front of the cascade

Climbing up on the rocks the three of them positioned themselves scanning the river looking for fish. Careful not to fall into the river they would slap the water snagging a salmon under the watchful eye of their mother.

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Success!!!

When one was successful the other would do his best to steal it for himself. Eventually they would share in the spoils; there was plenty of fish for all.

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Sharing the spoils

I remember as my camera clicked away that I hope the exposure was correct, that they light would hold and that everything was in focus. I took as many photographs as time would allow never knowing when the bears would get their fill and once again slip back into the dense forest and disappear.

After about an hour of shooting the guide said it was time to go. We backed up our gear and slowly retreated back along the trail leading to the beach and the floatplane.

On the flight back everyone was reviewing the shots on their cameras and reliving the days adventure. We were glad that the bears decided to make an appearance and give us a chance to witness what would be for many a trip of a lifetime.

If you are in Juneau and you are a photographer I highly recommend that you give Matt a call and book this excursion. How many people actually get to fly to a remote island and witness these magnificent animals in their environment and nature in it’s full glory… not many.

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Kodiak Bear Family giving me one final shot

The above photograph was recognized by the editors of Shutterbug Magazine and published in the “Top 10 Nature Photographs of the Year 2018”.

It was also recognized by National Geographic Magazine photo editor David Lee as a “Favorite” in the National Geographic Travel Photographer of the Year 2018 in the Nature Category.

To book this tour contact Bear Creek Outfitters, Matt Boline – Operations Manager – 8991 Yandukin Drive Juneau, Alaska – (907) 723-2663

 

Next join me for a flightseeing adventure over the mountains and glaciers of Glacier Bay National Park leaving from the Skagway, Alaska with the Mountain Flying Service.

Juneau Flyfishing…

Bear Creek Outfitters… Part One

I have had three major passions for most of my life… photography, fishing and backpacking.

Having lived and worked in Yosemite National Park for three years I have hiked hundreds of miles throughout the Sierras.

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Hiking the Panorama Trail In Yosemite… Half Dome on the right
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Taking a break along the Merced River in Yosemite National Park
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Tyrolean Traverse on Lost Arrow in Yosemite 3,000 feet above the valley floor

Later in life I lived the Rockies near Sun Valley and Stanley, Idaho again finding myself hiking trails and fishing the pristine waters.

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Fishing for rainbow trout in the Big Wood River near Hailey, Idaho. This was one of my favorite rivers to fish and only minutes from my front door.
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Stanley Lake near Stanley, Idaho about an hours drive from Hailey, Idaho and a favorite place to camp, backpack and fish for trout.

I think this is why I have felt such a kinship with Alaska. Just like Yosemite and the Rockies it gets into your blood. This is my sixth summer of traveling to Alaska and the Inside Passage and I am already looking forward to coming back next year.

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Mendenhall Lake and the Mendenhall Glacier near Juneau, Alaska
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Ketchikan Creek with Salmon Statue in Ketchikan, Alaska

Working as an Acupuncturist at Sea on various cruise ships I have been to the ports of Juneau, Ketchikan and Skagway dozens of times. I have become friends with a handful of locals and I have entered a restaurant, a store or walked down a street and someone has come up and said, “you are back”. It makes me feel welcome and at home.

One person I have been acquainted with over the last couple years is Matt Boline of Bear Creek Outfitters in Juneau. I have never met Matt in person but have spoken to him several times by telephone. He helped me book a couple tours that covered three of my Bucket List items.

One was to go flightseeing in a floatplane, another fly-fishing for salmon in a remote location and a third flying to an island and photographing Kodiak bears in the wild as they feed on salmon.

This post is going to cover two adventures, fly-fishing and the bear viewing. They both start with a flight to a remote island on a floatplane. You are met at your ship by a private van and taken to the Juneau airport where the field office of Bear Creek Outfitters and the floatplanes are located.

Once you arrive you will meet your guide and pilot. If you start, as I did, with the fly-fishing tour you will be outfitted with a pair of waders, given a fly rod and purchase an Alaska fishing license. You are also given a short safety lecture about the flight and what to expect during the day.

Next you are shuttled to the floatplane on the other side of the runway. The engine roars as your speed increases down the waterway, the plane shutters a bit and the next thing you know you are airborne.

Along the way you have great views of the Mendenhall Glacier, the surrounding mountains, the inner island waterways and the myriad of beaches and coves that dot the numerous islands in and around Juneau.

After enjoying the flightseeing for approximately 30 minutes the pilot gently banks the plane and lands on calm water coming to rest on the shoreline of a remote island.

Debarking the plane you grab you gear, spread out and begin fly-fishing. I personally have fly fished for years but regardless of your experience from novice to expert the guide is with you to share advice and his strategy.

With a change in the tide we took a short walk from the main channel to a small tidal creek. You could see the fish laying there waiting for you to try your luck. In our case it was Dolly Varden that was available and everyone on the trip was able to catch and land fish.

I personally along with a couple others landed salmon in the main channel. For those that did not all fishermen know they call it “fishing” or a reason… otherwise they would call it “catching”.

At the end of our trip we again loaded into the floatplane and headed back to the Juneau airport after a successful day of fishing and I ticking off a couple Bucket List items.

I want to apologize that I do not have photographs of this excursion. Instead of a camera in my hands it was a fly rod and I was busy catching fish… lol

To book this tour contact Bear Creek Outfitters, Matt Boline – Operations Manager – 8991 Yandukin Drive Juneau, Alaska – (907) 723-2663

Ketchikan… The Deadliest Catch Crab Fishing Tour

ALEUTIAN BALLAD… THE DEADLIEST CATCH CRAB FISHING TOUR

If traveling northbound your first port of call will be Ketchikan. A small scenic town of 14,000 people and one of the rainiest North American cities averaging 160 inches per year. In the summer cruise season the temperature averages in the high sixties.

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Ketchikan, Alaska

Today I find myself once again in Ketchikan, Alaska as I hurry down the gangway heading for one of my very favorite tours in Alaska, The Deadliest Catch Crab Fishing Tour.

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Aleutian Ballad moored in Ketchikan, Alaska

The tour is given onboard the Aleutian Ballad of season two. It is probably most remembered as the boat the was hit broadside by a sixty foot rogue wave nearly capsizing the boat and throwing the crew into the frigid waters of the Bering Sea. However in it’s homeport of Ketchikan, Alaska this is not an issue as you are in the calm, protected waters just off the coast.

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Aleutian Ballad outside Ketchikan, Alaska

Captain/owner Dave Lethin and his crew of merry misfits are “old salts” and extremely knowledgeable and entertaining. One thing that I have noticed over the years I have taken this tour is that everyone is treated like family including the guests.

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Captain/Owner of the Aleutian Ballad Dave Lethin

You will feel right at home sitting in comfortable chairs of the boats amphitheater style seating so everyone has a great view. During cold weather you are heated from above and also sheltered if you encounter any rain, after all this is Alaska. Another huge plus is that the tour is wheelchair accessible so everyone has a chance to enjoy this excursion.

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Captain Dave sharing his vast knowledge of the crab fishing industry

The Aleutian Ballad Crab Fishing Tour is very unique and is a hands on experience. You will be able to hold live crab, shrimp and other sea creatures after listening to the crew sharing their knowledge of the ocean and it’s inhabitants.

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A young mans first encounter with a tanner crab
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A young girls first encounter with a box crab
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Wheelchair accessible enables everyone to get into the act. Here a guest views the custom designed Alaskan Red King Crab Tank

One of my favorite highlights is traveling to nearby Annette Island. Here 40-50 American Bald Eagles swarm out of the trees like mosquitos and diving only feet from the boat feeding on fish thrown into the water by the crew.

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Eagles on Annette Island waiting for the dinner bell to be rung
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American Bald Eagle – Annette Island, Alaska

Many times I have heard guests say “I’ve seen eagles before we have them at home” and then those same people say, “I’ve never seen anything like this, ever”. It’s truly a once in a lifetime adventure not to be missed.

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Bald Eagles responding to the crew throwing herring into the water
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Bald  Eagle zeros in on a herring
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Bald Eagle Scores
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Bald Eagle soaring above the Aleutian Ballad

They are going to tug on your heartstrings as well. You will hear stories of friends and family that have been lost at sea. One day I was in the wheelhouse and Terry Barkley one of the captains. Terry is usually a very gregarious man always with a joke on his the tip of his tongue. But on this day, at this moment he stopped short. His face grew solemn and his voice softened. He told me how his brother lost his life just a few months before working on another crab fishing vessel. After a few minutes of quiet reserve Terry once again was back to being a cheerful and telling tales of the sea he loves so well. Pushing the memory deep inside at least for now.

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Captain Terry Barkley in the wheelhouse of the Aleutian Ballad

I talk of this, as does Terry to the guests at times as a prelude to the Aleutian Ballad Crab Fisherman’s Memorial Fund. The fund was started to assist family members and proceeds of the fund are distributed to the families of those lost in the Bering Sea.

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Captains Andy Pittard, Dave Lethin and Terry Barkley (left to right) haul in the Aleutian Ballad Crab Fisherman’s Memorial Fund Crab Pot

The crew will haul a crab fishing pot from the cold depths adorned with tags having the names of loved one written on them. Anyone can and is encouraged to do so in remembrance of a friend or family member that they have lost.

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Captains Andy Pittard, Dave Lethin and Terry Barkley attach donation tags to the Aleutian Ballad Crab Fisherman’s Memorial Fund Crab Pot

I made a donation and wrote the name of my daughter-in-law, Stephanie Pannell that died the year before at the tender age of thirty-four. After the tags are tied onto the pot it is sent over the side back to Davey Jones. At the end of the season the tags are removed and sent to Oregon to be displayed on a wall at the memorial.

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Donations tags on the Aleutian Ballad Crab Fisherman’s Memorial Fund Crab Pot

To join the crew of the Aleutian Ballad and experience this exciting adventure contact your ships shore excursion desk. You can also contact them directly by contacting Shauna Lee, Chief Operations Officer of the Aleutian Ballad at alaskacrabtour.com, email at shauna@56degreesnorth.com or call 888-239-3816.

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Shauna Lee the Chief Operations Officer of the Aleutian Ballad
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Danene Lethin “The Admiral” as she is affectionately known, the owner of the Aleutian Ballad holding an Alaskan Red King Crabs
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Captain Andy Pittard holding a red octopus
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Crew member Stephanie Hall with an arm full of tanner crabs
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Crew member Crystal Henning mans the onboard ship store

If you have taken a tour on the Aleutian Ballad and would like a coffee table book of your trip or would like a more in depth look please note I have written of my experiences and photography taken while onboard. It is available through this blog site both in print and in eBook format.

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Next Stop…. Juneau Bear Viewing and Fly Fishing for Salmon, Grayling and Dolly Varden

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Kodiak Family Lunch… Bear Creek Outfitters – Juneau, Alaska

North to Alaska…

NORTH TO ALASKA… THE PROLOGUE

My Africa adventure is a time that I will never forget. Thank you again Liza, Greg and Gillian Parker for your invitation to visit you and go on safari. And thank you Emile Sprenger de Rover for your hospitality and serving as our private guide.

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Greg Parker, Liza Parker and Emile Sprenger de Rover                                                     at Emile’s cabin in Ingwelala Private Game Reserve, South Africa

It is now North to Alaska and though this will be my sixth summer traveling to Alaska and the Inside Passage I still cannot wait to get there. The pristine waters, lush rain forests, mountains that glide upward from the sea and the vast numbers of diverse wildlife that inhabits the area make it just that much more special. As John Muir said… “The Mountains Are Calling… I Must Go!”

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Flightseeing over Glacier Bay National Park

I’ve always loved the mountains ever since I was very young. I grew up with my grandfather in Merced, California in the San Joaquin Valley. It was only a stones throw from the mountains, which we spent nearly every weekend except in the dead of winter. He was part Native American and passed on his love of nature, the mountains and the wildlife that lived there.

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Half Dome in Yosemite Valley from a flooded Cooks Meadow

Because of these experiences I have a deep-seated love of the mountains. After he died I moved in with the rest of the family to Laguna Beach, California, which is also a very special place for me and close to my heart. Even with that said the mountains are where I feel the most at home. My son Christian said it best when he was 12 years old… “Dad you are a Mountain Man not a Beach Boy.” And so it was to be for I have lived in Yosemite National Park, Lake Tahoe and the Wood River Valley in Idaho the vast majority of my adult life.

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Laguna Beach, California from Heisler Park

For the next couple months I will be writing and posting of my experiences in Alaska. I will be traveling as I have before working as an Acupuncturist at Sea on a cruise ship. This time my home is the Coral Princess carrying 2,300 guests and a crew of approximately 1,000 from countries all around the world.

We will be visiting the historic ports of Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway. We will also make side trips to view a number of glaciers in Glacier Bay, College Fjord and Yakutat Bay the home of my favorite glacier the Hubbard Glacier. At the end of the season we will also visit Icy Strait and Kodiak Island as we cruise to Japan, Korea, China, Vietnam, the Philippines, Guam and Hawaii before heading back to Los Angeles.

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Ketchikan, Alaska
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Juneau, Alaska
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Skagway, Alaska

Each post I will select a different tour or shore excursion that has been a favorite and give you an insiders view of what you might expect if you travel to Alaska. It may not be by cruise ship as there are various ways to get here but cruising the Inside Passage to Alaska is by far the best way to go and offers you the best scenic views, chance of wildlife sightings. All of this from a luxury cruise ship filled with a variety of activities, wonderful restaurants and where you never to cook a meal or make a bed. And one thing that I have heard from numerous guests is… “we only have to unpack once”.

So get ready and lets travel North to Alaska…

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First Stop… Ketchikan… The Deadliest Catch Crab Fishing Tour

Wildlife of South Africa

WILDLIFE OF INGWELALA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE AND KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

Lets take another break from storylines and enjoy some photographs of wildlife in South Africa. Obviously I was not able to photograph every species but I was able to capture a fair amount of wildlife.

Photographing wildlife is one of my passions and I was so fortunate to be able to have gone on safari in South Africa. It is something that I will never forget and another check off my Bucket List. None of this would have been possible with the invitation from my friend Liza Parker and her parents Greg and Gillian Parker who traveled with me on safari. Also a very special thanks to Emile Sprenger de Rover for his hospitality, friendship and volunteer game guide in the Ingwelala Private Game Reserve.

Please enjoy these photographs and the nature of South Africa as seen through my eyes. And to make this easy lets go alphabetically…

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baboon

 

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blue wildebeest
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bush buck
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cape buffalo and oxpecker
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cheetah
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cheetah
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duiker
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elephant
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genet
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giraffe
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hyena
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impala
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klipspringer
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kudu – buck
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kudu – doe
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wild dogs
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wild dogs
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zebra baby

I hope you enjoyed the Ingwelala Private Game Reserve and Kruger National Park in South Africa through my eyes. If you ever get the chance to go I’m sure it will be an adventure that you will never forget as was my experience.

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Liza Parker and myself in Ingwelala – photo by Greg Parker

 

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overlooking Ingwelala – photo by Liza Parker

Next stop…. Alaska and the Inside Passage

 

Photo Safari South Africa… Check

PART TWO… KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

After spending five days on safari in Ingwelala Private Game Reserve with Emile Sprenger de Rover, Liza and Greg Parker it was time for Part Two of the adventure.

Greg and I said our goodbyes to Emile and Liza and we headed out on a two-hour drive to the Kruger National Park in South Africa. I have heard of Kruger like just about everyone and I could not believe I was finally going to go on a photo safari there.

Greg being a native of South Africa has been there numerous times and arranged our accommodations for the next five days. His favorite place in the park is Orpen Camp, which we will stay at for the first three nights.

Orpen is a small camp and consists of a handful of small cabins, a small store and guest check-in facilities. About one hundred yards away just beyond the fence that surrounds the camp is a waterhole that many times is frequented by game.

After unloading and setting up our cabin Greg and I jumped back in his car for an afternoon drive making note of the time the gate closes for the evening. Greg is very knowledgeable of the area having spent so much time there photographing its wildlife and had a few ideas where to go immediately for that time of day.

A few minutes from camp down the main paved road Greg turned onto one of the many dirt roads that winds through the reserve. We were headed to a waterhole and bush area that he knew would more then likely have wildlife.

As we grew near there was a small heard of elephants ranging from large adults to small baby elephants.

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I was amazed on how comical the baby elephants appeared. They would stumble, sometimes running into the larger elephants as they walked trying to keep up tripping over their own feet.

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It really was a laugh watching them and we found ourselves lowering our cameras just to watch the show. Other times they seemed to be resting in the shade of the other elephants to get out of the hot mid-day sun.

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Greg and I watched the herd slowly moving through the groves of trees and bamboo eating their fill. Many times we were only ten to fifteen feet away from these magnificent creatures as our cameras clicked away in unison. To be fair Greg would generously position the vehicle or lean back so that I might get the better angle for the best shot.

There was more then one time a mother elephant seemed a little upset that we were so close intruding in what she deemed to be “her space” and would stating advancing towards the car. Greg would laugh at me when I would calmly say “don’t worry mama we are just taking pictures, we are not going to hurt your baby with the camera clicking away”. After which he remarked that he did not know of another “first timer” that was so calm during a false charge from these huge animals.

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I attribute this to my days with my grandfather that was part Native American. He showed me how to read the wildlife and how to read the warning signs they will portray. You must remember at all times these are wild animals, they will attack and kill you if threatened, especially here in Africa. You are in their backyard they are not in yours.

Day two started at dawn when the gates opened. It was a gray day, with dark clouds and spilling rain over the grasslands and bush. It had been a very dry season causing a drought so the rain was much appreciated. It made photography more challenging with the changes in the light and contrast often being very flat or having to use much slower shutter speeds then we would have preferred when shooting wildlife. After all they are living creatures and on the move much of the time.

Our quest this day was to photograph lions that thus far had eluded us and we were not to be disappointed. After driving for about an hour came across a pride of two males, three females and three cubs. They were in the grass and under a couple of low trees. We watched and photographed the pride under the dark and rainy skies for about two hours. The lion cubs mock attacked each other learning skills that will help them later in life.

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The females roamed the area looking for game or huddled with one of the males.

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We then left this pride and decided to look in a couple other areas where we heard of  other lion sightings. Following another dirt road we came across a small pride of three males lions sleeping. Every now and then one would stretch and roll over revealing it huge belly that was stuffed with a previous kill.

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There was also one lone female with this group that was injured. She would get up and walk limping unable to put any weight on her right front leg. Greg remarked that if this did not heal there was a very good chance that she would be left behind by the males and eventually die.

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We did spot one more small pride of lions as we continued down the dirt road, stopped to take a couple photographs and continued our drive.

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As it was getting late Greg decided that we should travel to the waterhole to see if any wildlife had returned to cool off from the days heat. A large male lion was drinking at the waterhole. Greg assured me this was a great chance to get an unusual shot, as it is not something witnessed very often.

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The following events that transpired left us awestruck in disbelief. First it was what we were witnessing and second as serious photographers what we were able to capture and record.

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To read the entire story of the day and the heartbreaking events that occurred please look at the blog post from April 21, 2018.  “Death of a King”.

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The next day we decided to return to the area that we had previously photographed the first pride of lions. The day had a bright blue sky with a few scattered clouds the lighting was much better and would make it much easier to get a quality photograph.

We arrived but the pride of lions was gone. We continued down the road in hopes of locating them. Instead we were rewarded by finding a couple cheetahs that were close enough to the road to reach with our lenses. We were able to get a handful of shots before they became bored with us and disappeared into the bush.

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We decided to make a day trip and long drive to an area that we had heard that rhinoceros had been spotted. It was a long drive to the southern edge of the park. We decided to make an adventure of it traveling the back roads in hopes of photographing other game along the way. Unfortunately it was fairly bleak and not much was seen or photographed.

Arriving near where the rhinos had been spotted we drove slowly both of us scanning the bush for any sign. Then Greg called out “rhino!” Just a few yards away there were two rhinoceros rambling through the bush only stopping to grasp young leaves off a tree or to eat grass here and there.

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Greg kept driving as I kept trying to keep track of the two rhinos that were darting in and out of the bush. We would stop when we could with Greg positioning the car so that I might get a shot. Luckily we both were able to get a few photographs before they turned and ran deep into the bush out of view.

Day Four and Day Five were on our way to another camp, Skukuza for two nights. Skukuza was a much larger camp then Orpen but not so large to be uninviting. Greg and his family have spent many days there on safari and another favorite he enjoyed. There are many different accommodations from small cabins to large homes, a restaurant, large gift shop and sits right on the banks of a large river.

Our hopes this day was to photograph a leopard, the only one of the Big Five that had eluded us. Greg said he knew of an area that once had a leopard that was near to camp. The drove down the main road as we scanned the grasslands and the bush. Circling back when Greg suddenly stopped the car. My heart raced in hopes that we found the elusive cat.

Instead what Greg spotted was a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl. As an avid birder Greg was very excited and said in the bird world this was just as an important sighting as a leopard. It was very regal as it sat perched on the limb of a tree watching as Greg and I raised the cameras and clicked away.

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At one stop at a blind overlooking a large body of water we were able to photograph a number of hippopotamuses including a baby hippopotamus.

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At the same location there was a very large Nile crocodile sunning itself in the mid-day sun.

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While overhead in a large tree a fish eagle scanned the water.

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At one point a large monitor lizard crept out of the bush flicking its tongue until located a beetle here and there.

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Close to sunset a waterbok slowly quenched its thirst unaware that only feet away lay a Nile crocodile.

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While in South Africa on safari we photographed a number of elephants, cape buffalo, baboons and wild dogs. We also saw a number of the antelope family including impala, waterbok, bushbuck, duiker, klipspringer, kudu, sharp’s grysbok and steenbok. We were also able to capture wildebeests, zebra and giraffe. Unfortunately yet again the leopard had eluded us but it was not for lack of trying.

Please visit an upcoming post for additional photographs of the wildlife that I was able to witness and the images I was able capture while on safari in South Africa for you to enjoy.

Larry